These relaxed, informal travel guides are an ideal mix of routes, itineraries, and side trips for independent, adventurous travelers who like to plan ahead but don't want to do all of the research on their own. They'll be able to take in everything they want to see, whether they have five days or five weeks, using the suggested plans and ideas "as is" or as a means of customizing their own agendas. -- Complete listings of sights -- Recommended hotels and restaurants -- Color photos and maps